The face, neck and décolleté are exposed to the sun, wind and cold weather, and must be all cared for in the same way as the face during the professional treatment and at home. The delicate neck and décolleté area is often ignored when it comes to application of
moisturizers and
sunscreen, and is easily susceptible to dehydration and sun damage. The signs of aging in the neck area are a result of our muscles losing elasticity, so along with a proper skincare regime, we have to learn to firm and tone the muscles to hold the skin tightly. As we age, the neck and jowls may start to show horizontal wrinkles and folds and begin to droop because of the daily gravitational pull, and slowing down of collagen production. This, of course causes the face to look much older than it may look otherwise. Also, genetics play a big role in the way our skin looks in that area. While many women take very good care of the skin on their face, the neck and chest often reveal their true age.
SIGNS OF AGING ON NECK AND DÉCOLLETÉ
Because the skin on the neck and décolleté is thinner and less elastic than skin in other areas, it’s more susceptible to environmental damage, which is compounded by the fact that this area is much more likely to be neglected and unprotected. The most common types of skin problems that are seen on the neck and chest are hyperpigmentation (brown spots), wrinkles, crinkliness, horizontal “necklace lines”, redness, blotchiness, elastosis, and skin tags. More complicated issues such as cutis rhomboidalis nuchae (leathery deep wrinkling on the back of the neck), and poikiloderma of Civatte (usually affects the front and sides of the neck in mostly fair-skinned clients) both result from long-term sun damage, are benign, and require gentle care. The skin on the neck is definitely different than that on the face, and if not well taken care of, will create unattractive disharmony that many women are self-conscious about.
SPECIALIZED SPA TREATMENTS
There is a variety of different anti-aging neck and décolleté treatments that can be done in the spa to address these issues above. Most clients will require a series of treatments to see results, so it is advised to suggest a package deal of 3 – 6 treatments. Treatments range from the most basic
enzyme exfoliation, to laser rejuvenation, and prices can be set according to your area.
Exfoliation
To achieve a lifting effect, estheticians should start the cleansing and exfoliation routine upwards from the décolleté and continue to the face.
Enzymes are a wonderful way to safely exfoliate the skin - this has been my favorite method for years! An enzymatic exfoliation is a good natural way to clean out the pores, get rid of excess oils, slough off the dry and dead skin for a healthy cell turnover. Fruit enzymes, such as Bromelain (from pineapple) and Papain (from papaya) eat away at the oils and dry skin, to expose a refreshed, clear complexion. Enzyme masks are generally more gentle and more safe than acids, and don’t thin the skin like Retin-A. A good
natural enzyme mask brightens the skin, activates cellular function, increases circulation, fades discoloration and leaves the skin feeling and looking fresh, smooth and healthy.
Dry enzyme masks that are activated moments before application are more potent, and have a longer shelf-life than pre-activated gel-like masks. This type of facial exfoliant usually comes in the form of a mask based on marine clay, bentonite, or oats. This is my
favorite type of enzyme mask, because it’s more gentle than an enzyme peel, which generally contain 10% to 30% AHA, and is not suited for everyone. An example of such a product would be a
pumpkin peel. It is quite strong, so it’s not always recommended for the thin skin on the chest. Just like a chemical peel, please administer an
enzyme peel with caution, making sure your client is a good candidate for the product. Some menopausal clients may experience redness and sensitivity on the décolleté, so it's better to hold off on the deep exfoliation. The average time needed for enzymes to do their job is 7-10 minutes, this treatment can be repeated once in 3 weeks, and can be added to any basic facial for as little as $20.
Mask
Pure collagen masks are the perfect hydrating and anti-aging treatment for the neck and chest. Décolleté products should not be too harsh, since the skin is thin in that area. It's also preferable to have fragrance-free, hypoallergenic products, to avoid any reaction. For the best results, choose
German masks which are made from the
highest quality medical-grade freeze-dried insoluble collagen fibers. These masks come dry, are soaked with an activator solution, and then molded to the face for 20 minutes. This specialized facial not only provides a tightening of the skin, but moisturizes, plumps, and reduces wrinkles for up to 3 weeks. Ideally, clients are encouraged to return for a facial once every 3-4 weeks, and the average cost is $150-$180 for an hour – hour and a half facial.
Photorejuvenation
An IPL laser (Intense pulsed light) usually gives good results for diminishing redness, fresh hyperpigmentation, and stimulating mild collagen growth. A series of 6 is recommended, and the cost is usually around $500 per treatment.. Like all laser treatments, it’s best to do this in the winter time, and the client will need maintenance treatments when brown spots reappear, usually once or twice a year.
Fractional lasers are newer and also treat wrinkles and post-acne scars. The non-ablative fractional lasers, like the Fraxel, may cost as much as $5000 for 6 treatments, and have a two day down-time. This laser will take two to six months to give the best results. Ablative fractional lasers, like the Active FX, have a four to eight day down-time day downtime and give a better result for the crinkly areas on the neck. The cost of this procedure is usually $1,000-$2,000 per treatment, and a series of 4 is recommended over a six month time span. I like to stay safe, and don’t work over the thyroid or the breasts with mechanical equipment to avoid stimulation of the lymphatic system.
HOME CARE
At home, one should cleanse that whole area with cleanser daily, and exfoliate with an enzyme mask once in three days. This is the only way to achieve an even transition in color and texture from the bust to the face. Moisturizer, as well as
sunscreen should always be applied, to prevent sun damage and wrinkles. I am a true believer in peptides, and the best combination that I have found to work well against wrinkles on the face and neck has been
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (Argireline®) with Matrixyl ™3000.
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (Argireline®) improves wrinkle depth, wrinkle volume and roughness. Matrixyl ™3000 minimizes crow’s feet and laugh lines, and prevents from further damage and wrinkle formation.Usually, peptides are best absorbable when used in a water-based serum, with the addition of low-molecular weight Hyaluronic Acid.
This is the formulation behind S
AIAN Active Renewal Serum. Ingredients are listed on the label starting with the most prevalent to the least prevalent. It is important to choose a product which is water-based, and has peptides in the beginning of the ingredient list – this way you can be assured of the amount of peptides in the formula. You may also consult the manufacturer, and ask what percentage of a given peptide is used. Usually, 10% of each peptide is sufficient to give great results, if there is a blend of 3 or 4 peptides in a formula. Avoid peptide combinations that are mixed with hydroquinone, parabens, and other toxins that can irritate the skin.
EXERCISE
One of the reasons for wrinkles on the neck and bust is gravitational pull, and often sleeping on high pillows and sleeping on the side can cause lines and wrinkles between the breasts and on the neck. Reversing the gravitational pull can be done by wearing a neck bandage or a compression garment for the face. This mechanical mode of lifting the neck, and resisting the gravitational pull works well when the client is doing housework or sleeping. The best way to prevent sagging, and to reduce preexisting damage is to do simple exercises that tone the muscles. Clients typically see results within the first month of consistent exercises. To target the “turkey neck”, the muscle which needs to be focused on is the platysma. The platysma muscle arises from the pectoral and deltoid muscles and rises over the clavicle, proceeding upward in a slanting manner along the sides of the neck. This group of muscles holds the neck and jaw line upward in youth but may separate during the normal aging process, leading to a drooping chin, sagging jawline and loose skin under the chin.
The easiest exercise to tone this muscle is “kissing the ceiling”. Tilting the head up, extending the lips, as if kissing the ceiling. It’s advised to do 3 rounds of 20 reps each day for a toned neck. I hope my advice was helpful to better understand the variety of treatments for the neck and décolleté. All systems work well for different people, so the key is finding a balance. There is no need to incorporate all the items I list in the article to achieve amazing results, but I am confident that trying some of these treatments, products, machines, and exercises will greatly benefit your clients!
